Some people drink it out of habit, others see it as just a break, and then there are those who, like Gianfranco, love living coffee as a true sensory experience. In a world where coffee is often taken for granted, he chose to dig deeper into every aspect of it: from the origin of the beans to the brewing method, from the freshness of the roast all the way to the daily pleasure of the perfect cup.
When and how did you discover your love for coffee?
I’ve always liked it, actually, especially for the aroma. The problem was getting it in cafés. It often happened that I’d have to drink a lot of water afterwards because of the bitter aftertaste it left in my mouth, which I didn’t enjoy. So I limited myself to having it with friends or on social occasions, only when I really couldn’t avoid it.
Do you remember the first time you thought: “This is a different kind of coffee”?
Sure, I had gone to a fair in a town near Fermo. By the way, I think it was a horticulture fair, so it had nothing to do with the coffee world. There was a café, my partner and I sat down and ordered two coffees. Just like that, very simply and without any expectations. What arrived were two mind-blowing coffees. I was truly amazed at how good that coffee was, so much so that it actually changed the way I experience coffee. Imagine, we immediately ordered another two — something that had never happened to me in my life.
Was there a moment or a person who “initiated” you into quality coffee?
Yes, Giordano Cognigni. He’s the barista who served us those two coffees at the fair. I went to meet him to give him my compliments and we started talking. I realized he knew an enormous amount about coffee, and I went to visit him at his shop “ Neroespresso” in Piane di Rapagnano. With him I learned a lot, but most of all I experimented and learned to live coffee in a more mindful way. Now every time he has something new he lets me taste it.
How do you live coffee in your day? Do you have any fixed rituals?
Fixed rituals no, also because I have a fairly variable daily rhythm. But the coffee after breakfast and the one after lunch should never be missing. I would have many more, but unfortunately you have to hold back a little.
Do you ever travel or go out searching for interesting coffees?
Sometimes it happens. Let’s say my point of reference in general is Giordano of Neroespresso. That said, here in the Marche region we are very lucky from a food-and-wine standpoint. You can find yourself going to the organic livestock farm, the winery making distinctive wines and the niche roastery all within a few kilometers. And that’s exactly what happened a few mornings ago. I went out to buy meat but I also came home with sparkling wine and coffee. I discovered the Perfero roastery just a few kilometers from my house. That, too, is a local business that, in my opinion, works with a lot of passion.
What are your favorite brewing methods? And why?
Definitely the Kamira. Since I discovered that one, I’ve gotten rid of all the various Mokas or espresso machines. I like it because, once you get the hang of it, it’s easy to use and it makes a coffee that isn’t quite like the Moka, but also isn’t quite like espresso. I couldn’t really define it well, but it satisfies me a lot. It produces a little crema on the surface that’s a wonder to look at. Then obviously, if the coffee you put inside isn’t quality, there’s no brewing method that can work miracles.
How do you choose your coffees? Are there origins you particularly love?
Actually, what I love most is trying them all. There’s this curiosity to discover that never stops. Over the years I have to say that Guatemala is a kind of coffee I really appreciate for its delicacy, and then there’s the Cuba Serrano, which always stays among the top spots in the ranking. The only thing is, also because of the U.S. embargo, it’s getting harder and harder to find.
What do you look for in a cup of coffee to say: “This one is really good”?
More than anything, today I can tell you what I don’t look for, namely that bitter, astringent sensation that unfortunately I find almost always in café coffees. Whereas before this thing was “normal”, today, after tasting many types of coffee made the right way, I have a palate that’s gotten used to different aromas and sensations. And I immediately recognize a burnt or low-quality coffee. When that happens to me, I leave it there in the cup, also because I know it’s not even healthy.
How much do freshness, roasting and grinding matter to you?
These are three crucially important aspects. Freshness for obvious reasons, especially on the more aromatic coffees, is important in order to appreciate them. As for the grind, unfortunately I don’t have a grinder at home, so it’s important that it’s well suited to my way of making coffee. Here the skill of the shopkeeper who grinds it for me comes into play, because every blend or single origin has different characteristics and it’s not always easy to nail the perfect grind. Among all of them, though, I think roasting is the most important thing. By now I prefer only medium or medium-light roasts. Because if we have an excellent raw material and then we burn it, we lose all of that coffee’s potential.
What’s the most common mistake that, in your opinion, ruins a good coffee?
First of all, as I was telling you, a roast pushed too far. And, secondly, choosing a raw material of too low quality.
Have you ever done any special experiments with coffee (e.g. personal blends, liqueurs, cooking recipes…)?
Every now and then I make coffee liqueur, what’s called around here “caffè Sport” or also “caffè Borghetti”. I have a recipe from a friend who used to work at a well-known local company that produces liqueurs. Every now and then I make it. It’s very simple and also delicious.
What do you think of the coffee served in Italian cafés? Is there really a coffee culture in Italy?
I think coffee culture in Italy is almost absent. These conversations we’re having are still picked up by very few people, very few. I often try to get certain concepts across when I’m out and about, but in the vast majority of cases I’m not heard or understood. You can see some small changes, but there’s still a long road ahead, in my opinion.
